Doi Mae Salong

I just sat in the car and stared for a full minute. A 7-11 store right there in the middle of the village. Then I saw a bank with an ATM, then another and another.

The first time a buddy took me up to Doi Maesalong, the road was treacherous and the village a wannabe adventure traveler's dream. What stood out most were shops fill with exotic merchandise from China. Vases with dragons, small crystal bottle with pictures drawn from the inside and Chinese liquor complete snakes and lizards.

And where else in Thailand could you buy peaches brought in by pack animal.

All the roads were dirt and the only place to stay were some rough bungalows perched on the side of a mountain. Most people went for the day to see the exceptional views and to sample the black chicken soup.

Rumors had the place as a major trafficking stop for raw heroin coming out of Burma. It was one of the few places in Thailand where Mandarin was commonly spoken and people wore jackets because of the cool mountain air.

But now Doi Maesalong has discovered green gold. The hillsides once covered with bamboo and wild foliage now boasts oolong tea. Bushes stretch to the horizon in any number of directions.

Tea shops are numerous among the roadside shops that specialize in oolong tea. Prices are a small fraction of the west. I bought a kilo of a leading brand of Jasmine for friends in Bangkok and paid less than Bt 300, as I recall.

Mae Salong now has a number of accommodations. Everything from cheap guest houses to upscale bungalows with manicured flower gardens and pools under construction.

Is Doi Mae Salong worth a visit? You bet, 7-11, ATM's and all. Sample the tea, buy a few kilos. Try the black-chicken soup, it's outstanding.

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